Hello dear Amigurumi Followers
Today we share Amigurumi Doll Lolly Free Pattern for you. As you know we share new free amigurumi pattern every day. The main crochets are gazelle, amigurumi bear, pola, crochet panda, penguin, giraffe, llama, pig, bunny, clown, lamb, bee, crochet unicorn, amigurumi doll, fox, penguin, dinosaur, crochet elephant, hippo, monkey, crochet cat, crochet dog and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Doll Lolly.
I want to give you some informations about this amigurumi free pattern ; Doll Lolly.
Amigurumi Doll Lolly Free Pattern
You will need:
– About 50g each of Size 4 Worsted weight yarn in skin color, sweater color, stripe colors
(I used Hobby Lobby’s I love this yarn for the project in colors ivory, pink, turquoise, and white)
– Yarn for the hair (I used Yarn Bee’s First Love in the color Kisses)
– 12mm safety eyes
– E hook (3.5) [I HIGHLY recommend this set. Especially for this time of year. I have had the same set for 4 years and they still look brand new]
– Needle for sewing
– Stitch marker
– 1 cup Poly pellets (these are used to weigh down the body so it can sit on the shelf)
– The poly pellets are optional, but they do provide a lot of stability. I poured mine into mismatched socks and tied it up, like a bean bag. You can also use a sandwich bag or if you feel like your stitches are tight enough, just pour them into the body. I was more worried about my boys playing rough with them and the pellets working out, so I used the sock.
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SC– single crochet
SC INC– single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)
INV DEC– Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)
Magic Circle– Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.
Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Stuff as you go.
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-20: SC in each stitch around. (54)
Place the safety eyes in between rows 13 and 14, ten stitches apart. Sew on eyelashes. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can. I also like to stretch the bottom of the head a little. It makes it more round from the point of the neck.
Round 21: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 22: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 23: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 24: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 26: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 27: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 28: INV DEC around. (6)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for the nose.
Chain to 18. Turn and HDC in each across (17) Fasten off and sew over the shoulders of the doll. I use one end to sew on the back where the line of the overalls meets the shirt. Then with the other end I go THROUGH the doll and stitch the end on the front over the line where the shirt meets the overalls. Go back through the doll and weave in the ends in the back.
Make the sweater edge by attaching the same color of yarn to row 12, with the bottom facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the edge of your shirt would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. DC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Chain 2 and DC in each around 2 more times, for a total of three rows. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Using the shoe color:
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle.
Round 2: INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in the first, SC INC in the next. (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Rounds 7-9: SC in each around. (36)
Change to the first stripe color (I used white)
Round 10: In the back loops only, SC in each around. (36)
Round 11: INV DEC 12 times. SC in the remaining 12 stitches. (24)
Round 12: INV DEC 6 times. SC in the remaining 12. (18)
Rounds 13-14: SC in each around. (18)
Change to the next stripe color. For the rest of the leg, change colors every 5 rows.
Rounds 15-54: SC in each around. (18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.
Chain 15 and attach them on either side of the shoe creating the latch. Weave in the ends.
If you want the doll to only sit on a shelf, I recommend sewing the legs in the front, around Round 10. But I attached them to the very bottom because I thought a little girl would rather play with the doll like that. It still sits just fine, but not as flat.
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