Hello dear Amigurumi Followers
Today we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. The main crochets are amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi llama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi bees, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Amigurumi Christmas Stocking.
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;
• Lion Brand New Basic 175 (Weight: 4/medium – 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
– MC: Tomato (113) – 1 skein
– AC: Cream (098) – 1 skein
• Tapestry needle
• Size J (6 mm) crochet hook
• Size H (5 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• A printout of upper band c2c graph (download here)
Total Size: 18.5” x 8”
Upper Band: 5.5” x 14.5”
Stocking: 15” x 8”
C2C Upper Band: 5 c2c tiles x 5 c2c tiles = 4”
Stocking: 13 dc, 6.25 rows = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary:
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
tile – one square on the corner to corner graph: 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc
rep – repeat
PM – place marker
Overall Pattern Notes:
• The upper band is worked first using the corner to corner technique. Once you’ve reached Round 5 in the stocking section, it’s important to measure the stocking inside the upper band to ensure that it’s small enough to fit comfortably. If it’s not fitting well, use a smaller hook size for the stocking. (If you achieve the gauge listed above for both sections, you should have no trouble fitting them together.)
• To work this corner to corner graph, begin with the pixel (tile) in the lower right corner.
• Each pixel in the graph corresponds with one tile in the upper band. A tile = 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc
• Because the back of the c2c piece will be hidden inside the stocking, you may choose to take some liberties in how tidy you are with switching colors and weaving in ends.
Using larger hook, complete upper band according to graph pattern.
Fasten off last MC tile and last AC tile leaving a 20” tail on both. Weave in remaining ends.
With RS facing out, fold upper band in half so that the sides meet in the middle. Use a tapestry needle and the tail of AC yarn, seam the sides together with the mattress stitch.
• The stocking toe is worked in the round in a spiral, meaning that you won’t chain 1 at the beginning of each round. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to keep track of where a new round begins and move the stitch marker up as you work.
Foundation: Using MC yarn and the smaller hook, make a magic circle.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc in circle, PM. (12)
Round 2: [1 sc, 1 dc] in first dc, 2 dc in each of next 11 dc. (24)
Round 3: [1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (36)
Round 4: [1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (42)
Round 5: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Measure toe section inside upper band as described in the overall pattern notes.
Rounds 6-11: Rep Round 5.
Do not fasten off. Remove stitch marker.
• The heel is worked back and forth in rows, continuing from where the toe left off. After Row 1, the heel will be completed between the two stitch markers.
• The ch 3 at the beginning of a row always counts as 1 dc.
Row 1 (cont. in same direction as toe was worked—do not turn): 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, PM in 11th dc; 1 dc in each of next 20 dc, PM in 31st dc; turn. (20 dc between markers)
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 19 dc; turn. (20 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc; turn. (18 dc)
Row 6: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc; turn. (16 dc)
Row 7: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. (14 dc)
Fasten off, leaving a 15” tail.
Fold heel flap in half and use a tapestry needle and the tail from the heel section to seam the back of the heel with the mattress stitch.
• The ankle is worked in the round just as the toe section was. The first round will be worked along the top edge of the toe section and along the top of the heel section.
• When working into the heel section, place stitches at a frequency of 2 dc in the first row of the heel section, 1 dc in the second row, 2 dc in the third row, and so on to create the necessary 42 dc by the end of the round. (See photo below.)
• As you’re working into the heel rows, instead of working under the first st of each heel row, I find it useful to insert my hook into the middle post of the second dc in each heel row. This ensures that there are minimal gaps created by the intersection of the different rows and rounds. (See photo below.)
Attach MC yarn at the intersection of the heel section and the toe section on the left side of the stocking (right side for left-handed crocheters).
Round 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in first empty dc along top of toe section, 1 dc in each dc along top of toe section edge; dc along top edge of heel as described in the notes above in order to create 42 total dc when you arrive back where you originally attached the yarn. (42)
Rounds 2-13: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Do not turn.
Row 14: 1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 1 sl st in each of next 2 dc. (4)
Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.
JOINING UPPER BAND & STOCKING
Place stocking inside top as pictured below. (Nine rows of the stocking ankle should be visible below the upper band.) Pin in place using safety pins or stitch markers.
Using a tapestry needle and a strand of AC yarn, sew top to the stocking, taking care to work small, inconspicuous, stitches into only the AC tiles on the c2c band.
Repeat this process using MC yarn (the tail from the stocking or upper band) and working only into MC tiles on the c2c upper band. I find it looks best to place all your seaming stitches around the top of the stocking edge, which ends up being about the middle of the c2c piece.
You’ll want to create a hanging loop that will be long enough to be sewn to the interior edge of the stocking (not just the upper band) when folded in half. This will make the hanger sturdier and ensure the stocking doesn’t stretch out when hung. For the sample, 30 ch achieved this.
Foundation: Using AC and smaller hook, ch 30 (or the number of chains necessary.)
Row 1: Sk 1 ch, 1 sc each ch; turn. (29)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc. (29)
Fasten off leaving a 20” tail. Fold hanger in half to form a loop. Place hanger in stocking so that the bottom of the hanger meets the top of the stocking edge. Using existing tail, sew into the stocking and c2c top.
More Amigurumi Christmas Stocking Ideas: